Wednesday – Sunday. September 8 – 11
To me Halifax is the city from where large quantities of war equipment were shipped in WW II.
That’s what I remember from the school books. But the city has a much richer history.
We are moored in the city centre. In front of us the Maritime Museum. On the port side an old WW II frigate and on the starboard side the “ Acadia”, an old WW I steamer. Both belong to the Maritime Museum. In a few hundred yards distance on the boulevard, with a spectacular view over Halifax Bay, you find the Memorial for all the immigrants from Europe in the beginning of the last century. Nowadays we call them economical fugitives.
The old Halifax consists of beautiful wooden (ware) houses, mainly near the harbour, together with the Citadel on a hill and the Old Post Office built in Art Deco style. Located in between, blocking the view, are high rises constructed of steel, glass and concrete. Modern times temples of our market economy. Inevitable but regrettable. In the suburbs many beautiful Victorian style mansions. Some near the waterfront.
Two bays and several lakes surround Halifax. During weekend sailing yachts on the water and many people on the boulevard, terraces and shops. In the background the impressive sound of the departing Queen Mary II ship’s horn. It’s marvellous.
We arrived here last Wednesday in the late afternoon after four nights and days sailing from Newfoundland to Halifax. Approximately 420NM and until now our hardest stretch. The remnants of several hurricanes together with tidal currents and the unpredictable climate of Newfoundland created indescribable seas. One can compare it by being in a roller coaster for 24 hours a day. Peter performed unbelievable professional circus acts in the pantry while cooking and providing us with a decent meal! I won’t recall his comments during cooking, but his performance is much more amusing than a slapstick movie from the thirties.
The way Nova Scotia is seen from the sea shows a definitely different landscape compared to Newfoundland’s. The latter is rough, inhospitable with occasional deep fjords and steep cliffs, rising from the sea.
Nova Scotia looks more rolling and friendly. However it’s a limited description. Observations from the sea are always under scrutiny (subjective).
Distances and heights are difficult to judge and our brain and eyes are masters in distorting reality.
Upon arrival in Halifax we get a warm welcome from Bruce and daughter Beth. With incredible patience they waited on the quay for three hours. The boarding of our ship was denied by the Customs (more about this later). After the long wait they drive us to their house just outside the city. Here we receive a warm welcome from Joan, Bruce’s wife.
After four days of balancing a plate on a rolling and pitching lap it’s a treat to enjoy a delicious meal in this most enjoyable, steady, place. But before dinner we enjoy banjo and songs by Bruce and the magnificent deep cello music of classical educated Joan.
Bruce, Joan and Beth thank you for your hospitality and great evening!
The reception by the Canadian Customs was less agreeable. I will tell you more about this in a next blog. But to those who read this…. be warned. I’ve seen TV docu’s about the Australian Customs but Canada also shows its feathers. The U.S.A will be next… And those countries wish for a Free Trade Treaty….
We spend Saturday afternoon and part of the evening in the Goat Garden, a kind of beach clubhouse on the quay. A great place to observe people and the (female) waiting staff! Always a nice pastime. Afterwards we have dinner in a café-restaurant, which used to be an old warehouse. And there’s live music. In front of us on the square is a collection of Harley Davidson bikes together with some other motorized craft! Edzard and Peter are in heaven. We end the evening in style with Sambuka and an animated conversation with a Canadian couple.
Tomorrow morning: The American Embassy just around the corner. We check our Visa, better safe than sorry. One can’t be careful enough…
Hi, it was lovely to meet you in Newport and share travel stories. Your travel story is wonderful and we will be following along. Fair winds and good seas. S/V Ingomar