Sat-Sun-Monday August 20-22
Whaling
We leave Höfn Saturday morning 0800. Easterly tailwind, 4bft. Overcast, 10 degrees Celsius.
It’s a long monotonous trip along the coast. Most mountains hid their tops in the clouds. Not a ship in sight. There is no a harbour to be found along the whole coastline ( 200 Nm) from Höfn to the SW tip, which we round towards Reykjavik. An almost uninhibited part of Iceland. The only contact with the outside world are the tunes of two Icelandic radio stations, reporting live from two music festivals in Reykjavik. It keeps us awake.
This is the final watch for Bas. He will leave us in Reykjavik and fly back in a few days. University is calling!
In the meantime, during the night invisible, we pass Hekla. In Iceland popularly called “ The gate to hell”. According to Icelandic volcanologists Hekla is about to erupt and they warned already in June to be prepared!
Next day visibility is even less, almost no wind and there is no difference between heaven and earth ( water..). A spooky white light guides us towards Reykjavik. We’re in the middle of a fog bank. Around 1630 we enter the harbour of Reykjavik. Our family, who flew in for a few days, are waving to us from the quay. Together we will discover Iceland during the next days!
Reykjavik is a spacy, modern city including the beautiful architectural concert building “ Harpa”. From our yacht harbour we have a splendid view of the building.
When I walk in the old city that night I notice that most facades and house roofs are covered by corrugated sheets, used both on old and new buildings. They use all kind of colours, grey, white, red, blue and that makes you cheerful.
The city is invaded by cranes, as lot’s of construction works are going on. Obviously they survived the 2008 “ Ice Save “ financial crisis. Not surprising with today’s prices for your daily needs.
Tourism is “ booming “. Increasing from 150.000 in 2000 to 1.500.000 these days. You experience that by the many shops offering day trips including large 4w drives, expeditions, sea trips in their folders.
Luxurious cruise ships, moored on the quay’s, are unloading their exotic tourists into buses. They collectively put themselves on a higher level by taking selfies of the original or man made attractions.
Monday is a “ day off “. After breaky a stroll along the harbour. A passenger ship from Madeira enters under it’s own power, guided by two tugs.
“ Whalers”, small vessels stowed with tourists depart to spot the large sea mammals. This afternoon we will do the same, however we sail “ Four Seasons”.
We leave the harbour in a fresh sun light and light winds. The ship’s deck is occupied by our excited family, expecting to spot and see the whales. So we head for our whale adventure. Soon we are rewarded! At some respectable distance we spot the first one. A slowly moving, good natured “ sea monster “.
“ Over there”, “ no, behind us”, not in front…!! Enthusiasm is topping. In the end three-four close encounters!! Not a bad start for a bunch of amateurs! Even one of the professional whalers heads to our position to see or spot our “ catch”. It’s getting late and we turn back.
Beer, bread and soup it’ll be, prepared by our own Top Chef Peter! Next two days will be dynamic. We will explore the interior of Iceland. Hunting for Trolls!!
