Fish & Chips and Steam Engines

Friday, Saturday August 12-13

We are en route from Peterhead to Kirkwall, an approximate distance of 105 NM. During the night the initial warm southerly wind increases and veers SW. As a result the ship starts a moderate roll. I can’t type my story any more; the keyboard slides from left to right. Due to the rain we have low visibility, which is very evident at sunrise. Of the many Orkney Islands, at a distance of approximately 2.5 km, only the contours are visible. When we round the north point of Deerness and head for Kirkwall the wind suddenly increases in all severity. We see speeds of 35 Kts (8 bft). Fortunately we sail straight into the wind. The forceful wind blows away my Gopro, attached with a suction cup to the outside. Fortunately secured by a string!

When mooring in the rather protected yacht harbour of Kirkwall we need all our fenders on the stb side. The wind forces the ship with all its power against the jetty. We are not the only ones, everywhere people are very busy to secure the boats. Welcome to Kirkwall, Orkneys! The many ferries between the islands, they moor near our berth, are not bothered. Compared to them we are toys. It’s a great pleasure to see the “cowboys” enter the harbour and deliver their “human” cargo. At the end of the day they race around the jetty to claim their berth for the night.

Kirkwall, the capital of the Orkney’s with her 70, mainly uninhibited, islands houses 20.000 residents. The city centre is located around the Monumental Cathedral, built of beautiful red brown stone. Besides shops and many pubs the unavoidable “ Fish and Chips”. We visit the local museum with an exhibition about “ The Great War”, now 100 years ago. In those days the Orkney’s were a main base for the Royal Navy because of the presence of many bays. Silent witnesses are still visible. At low tide many wrecks still show the their presence.

In the meantime the weather doesn’t improve. Strong winds and lots of rain. We decide to stay here until Sunday morning, hoping for better weather. In the late afternoon we visit “ Albert’s Pub”, drink the local draught and connect to the word via Wi-Fi.

Saturday is a quiet day. Sleep late, breaky and groceries. We skip our planned cycle trip. We leave the hill climb in rain and force 7 to the profs. At the end of the day the usual pint. The pubs are crowded and the first one surprises us with loud British hard rock from the eighties. So we return to “Albert’s Pub”. Two TV screens show us the progress of the Olympics and the Premier League. Most locals wear their heavy, muddy boots. This is their climate.

We end the day with the unavoidable but Oh so delicious “ Fish and Chips”. An hour later, fully satisfied, we are saluted outside by two steam traction engines, which greet us with their whistles. Like stunned schoolboys we, and we are not the only ones, walk around the impressive toys. This made the day.
Peterhead-Kirkwall 106 NM. Trip time 15 hours.

Till later, Regards the Four Seasons crew.

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